You don't - you say it in Ligurian, Calabrese, Tuscan etc. I couldn't find any resource on the internet to negotiate all these regional names for seafood, so I'm publishing the one from my 35 year old Tuscan seafood cookbook! Invaluable if you like using local recipes!
http://cucinacinzia.com/2010/05/13/seafood-in-italian-dialect/
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